Blog Travel

January 20, 2020

We spent a whirlwind 48 hours in Prague; a city with a penchant for cheap beer, charming architecture, and jazz clubs – and visited some of the most memorable places to eat, drink, see and spend. 

 

Eat: Sisters Bistro

Located in Prague 1 just outside of Old Town, Sisters Bistro is a delightfully bright and welcoming café offering a good range of delicious looking cakes, coffees, and local artisan drinks. However, the crowning glory of Sisters Bistro is its Chlebíčky, the traditional open sandwich of the Czech Republic.

We opted for 3 sandwiches to share; the first with generous rolls of rare sliced beef sat atop rosettes of mustard dressing and bejewelled with cod roe. The second featured punchy pickled fish on a bed of soft onions, and our final Chlebíčky combined soft boiled egg, earthy wild mushrooms, and potato, and was finished with homemade mayonnaise, fresh dill, and a salty onion crumb.

While not the cheapest snack in Czech terms – it worked out at just under £5 for 2, the Chlebíčky at Sisters are a thing of beauty and as a result, and as much as it loathes me to say – are incredibly instagrammable. Luckily this isn’t a case of style over taste though. Made fresh on-site daily, the menu changes with the seasons, and you can tell that every ingredient has been carefully considered to showcase the best Czech produce. While a good selection of veggie and meat options are available they do sell out fast, so get in there early if you want your pick of the full range.

 

Drink: Hemingway’s bar

Paying an earnest tribute (sorry) to the great writer himself, Hemmingway’s is a deliciously authentic speakeasy. Dark walnut cabinets are lined with every conceivable liqueur, at least 3 rows deep. Beautiful copper pots and vintage confectionary jars are laid out on the bar overflowing with fruits, syrups, and stirrers, and immaculately dressed waiters glide around the narrow, winding rooms to deliver expertly mixed drinks.

Many drinks on the menu are absinthe or rum heavy (Hemmingway’s favourites), and while by no means the cheapest bar in Prague (£9 a cocktail) it’s a damn steal for what is essentially a trip through time to the 1920s. Highly recommended is the Scrabble Punch – a blend of Havana Club Especial rum, Žufánek apricot brandy, fresh lime juice, white choco syrup, gunpowder green tea and fresh mint, which comes with an adorable marzipan scrabble tile on the side.

 

See: Kampa Island

While most visitors head to the more famous Old Town to soak up the sights of the city, I recommend beating the crowds and heading over Legion Bridge to Kampa Island instead. Kampa is one of the most beautiful parts of Prague, with its meandering canals, traditional water mills, colourful 17th-century buildings, and peaceful green spaces. However, don’t for a second think Kampa is stuck in the past. The island is home to both the Kafka Museum and Museum Kampa – a museum dedicated to Central European modern art. As such there are a number of iconic art installations scattered across the island, including three Giant Crawling Babies by renowned Czech sculptor David Černý, and a colony of bright yellow penguins poised on the bank of the Vltava River.

It’s easy to pass a good few hours exploring the streets of Kampa Island, and it’s well worth it as you can discover some almost deserted treasures. Our favourite spots included Vojan Gardens, a hidden park with strange follies and a flock of friendly peacocks, and the Grand Priory Mill Wheel over the Devils Stream, which is guarded by a very interesting character indeed.

It’s easy to pass a good few hours exploring the streets of Kampa Island, and it’s well worth it as you can discover some almost deserted treasures. Our favourite spots included Vojan Gardens, a hidden park with strange follies and a flock of friendly peacocks, and the Grand Priory Mill Wheel over the Devils Stream, which is guarded by a very interesting character indeed.

The Lennon wall; a huge mural celebrating the life and lyrics of the famous Beatle is also worth a visit before heading back towards Prague Old Town via the iconic Charles Bridge.

 

See & Spend: Kavarna Kocici

Not to be confused with the Cat Café in New Town, Kavarna Kocici is the city’s original feline paradise located in its historic centre. Kavarna Kocici is a bright and functional little place serving up a good range of drinks, snacks, and lunch dishes, but it’s the café’s 9 cat companions that people really pop in for. Watching them explore, play and snooze was strangely relaxing, and we were even blessed with a visit from Maggie, an adorably curious calico, while we enjoyed our lattes. If you fancy a visit yourself, look out for the majestic-looking Lizzie who despite being a tiny bit aloof during our stay did sit still long enough for a photo.

 

Spend: Bohemian Retro

Located in Prague 3, Bohemian Retro is a bit of a trek from my other recommendations, but well worth it if like me you’re an avid thrifter. A little rough around the edges as all good vintage shops should be, there’s not an inch of Bohemian Retro that isn’t obscured by clothing, accessories or homewares from the 50s, 60s,70s, and 80s. From shelves piled high with floral crockery, to a wall fully adorned with beads, brooches and earrings, you can easily lose track of time in this place. Prices are fair too with most clothing items having a blanket price. It’s also worth having a chat with the shop’s colourful owners too, who were incredibly friendly and even offered up advice on how we could make the most of our stay.

 

Honourable Mention: Cafe Louvre

If you’re seeking an affordable breakfast with a flourish of early 1900s sophistication, head to Cafe Louvre in Prague 1.

Stepping through the doors to the sprawling dining hall feels akin to entering an Agatha Christie novel. With its flocked vintage wallpaper, ornate chandeliers, and silver tea sets it’s easy to see why it was also once a favoured haunt of Albert Einstein and Franz Kafka.

the menu is traditionally Czech, with eggs, meat, and cheese featuring heavily. Most dishes come in at around £3 to £5, however, I recommend the Northern set breakfast of pancakes with smoked salmon, shallots, and sour cream, and a glass of sparkling brut to boot, all for just over £6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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