When I was growing up, buying second-hand clothing was definitely NOT something to shout about. It put you in one of two camps – either your family were living on a shoestring and couldn’t afford to buy new, or you were a serious ecowarrior type who spent the weekends chained to trees, and to be frank, at the age of fourteen I didn’t want to be lumped in with either.
Pickings were fairly slim back then too, especially for rural folk like me. Charity shop rails in my town were weighed down with B’wise polo shirts, 80’s twin sets, and those V-neck jumpers with a faux shirt collar sewn in.
However, buying second-hand clothing has surged in popularity in recent years and the availability of quality vintage and pre-loved items has come on in leaps and bounds. This has been fuelled by the realities of our ‘ultra-fast fashion’ culture. Recent reports show that of the 32 billion garments produced each year, an estimated 64% end up in landfill. Central to the problem are websites such as Shein – an unrivalled mecca for those seeking to recreate trends touted by celebrities and social media influencers, but on a budget.
It’s believed the brand launches a whopping 1000 new designs each day – although they have repeatedly come under fire for copying the work of smaller, independent fashion designers. That’s not the only controversy surrounding Shein. This year a Channel 4 documentary revealed workers in their factories in China were often given just one day off a month – breaching Chinese labour laws. The average worker made just shy of £500 a month for producing over 500 items a day.
To keep costs low, the majority of clothes are made using cheap plastic materials, like polyester and nylon. These fabrics aren’t made to last, so begin to deteriorate after a few cycles in the washing machine and can end up in landfill far quicker than other fashion brands, even those on the cheaper side of the highstreet.
Despite this string of scandals in its relatively short lifetime, it was still named 2022’s most popular fashion brand, beating big brands like Zara and Nike (both of which have also had to answer to claims around their working conditions and sustainability). This speaks volumes to just how much influence social media has over our buying habits. People can try out and move on to new trends faster than ever before. A quick search of ‘Shein Haul’ on Instagram or Tick Tock returns thousands of videos of people unboxing garment after garment – all purchased for the total cost of a single M&S jumper.
However, while many accounts are driving the fast fashion flywheel, there’s a growing movement of second-hand and thrifted fashion supporters out there too, which is good news for both our purses and the planet.
In my experience, shopping second-hand is the only way to find truly unique items (short of having a designer on speed dial) and the thrill of finding a bargain never really goes away. However, shopping pre-loved items requires a little more thought if you want to stay sustainable. That £8 dress isn’t going to be such a bargain if you have to spend £££ on getting it wearable, or if it ends up at the back of your wardrobe – or worse, in the bin, after you’ve decided it’s not quite right for you.
So, what’s the best way to shop smarter second-hand, and ensure you’re buying pieces you love, and will likely wear again and again?
For jumpers, coats, and shirts, don’t be restricted by the size you usually wear
You could be missing a trick by only browsing the rails of items in one size, for a couple of reasons. The first is that clothing sizing has changed a lot over the years. Garments produced between the 1960s and 80s run smaller than today’s standards – meaning something with a size 14 label may only fit a modern size 10. As a size 14 I’ve had a lot of luck looking in the size 18 sections of charity shops when on the hunt for vintage.
On the other hand – the ‘oversized’ trend also means that a lot of items that are smaller that your usual size can still look great by fitting your body in a different way. Some of my favourite jumpers are size 10 and are just the right length to pair with dresses without leaving me feeling swamped in wool.
Accept that you will often leave empty handed
I’m not sure why, but I do feel more pressure to buy something when trawling the charity shops. Maybe it’s because there’s a lot more effort in scouring the rails and trying things on than in regular shops. That, and with a far lower price point it can be tempting to buy something nice, but that you don’t necessarily love. Those enticing £1 bins can make this even trickier, but no matter how low a price may be, if it doesn’t fit like a glove, or if you’re unsure when or how you’d wear it, put it back. Trust me, your time is too precious to be purging your wardrobe every few months on Vinted or Depop.
Bring a tape measure
Jeans. Jeans are the bane of my life. I’m a 33inch waist, which is an annoying ‘in-between’ size – not quite a 14, but not a 12 either. Sizes differ a lot between brands too which makes finding jeans that fit an unnecessary challenge. Being able to measure the waist before heading to the changing room saves a lot of disappointment, not to mention sweating (I swear changing rooms have their own microclimate.)
Be prepared to rummage, on the floor
Some of the best things I’ve found have been pulled from huge piles on the ground at car boot sales – my £1 fluffy leopard coat, and a plethora of 70s shift dresses. Yes, they needed a good wash when I got them home but they were absolutely worth the sore knees.
Shop out of season
Look for summer dresses in December and jumpers in July. You’ll likely have far more to choose from and possibly at a lower price too.
Get familiar with brands and quality
A lot of cheap, mass-produced clothing won’t have a branded label or care instructions label, so be wary of items that only have a small square label showing S/M/L/XL sizing. These are likely to be made of lower-quality fabrics that won’t last long.
And, while buying fast fashion brands second-hand helps to keep them out of landfill – you may only be delaying the inevitable for a few extra months. Be stricter about the condition of an item to make it a worthy purchase. Is the colour likely to fade? Does the fabric look ‘bobbly’, or have a rough or ‘tight’ texture? If so you may not get much more wear out of it.
Some brands I’m a bit pickier about buying pre-loved are Primark, H&M, and Zara, which in my experience can start to look a little tired after a few washes. I’ll usually snap up M&S items and anything with a higher cotton blend as I know I’ll get plenty of wear out of them, and the style and cut tend to be more timeless.
Triple check fastenings and seams!
I’ve been burned buying trousers and bags with dodgy zips. Unfortunately, I definitely don’t yet have the skills to replace these (my sad neglected sewing machine is currently glaring at me as I type). Look out for loose buttons and worn out or stretched seams too. No matter how much you love an item if you lack the time or knowhow to fix them up, it’s not going to add any value to your wardrobe.
Some things simply won’t come out in the wash
As much as you love an item, you can’t will it into wearable condition. Certain things are just really hard to fix. For example, grease marks on collars from a person’s hair, and white deodorant stains under the arms can be really tricky to shift – especially from delicate fabrics that can’t be left to soak without causing damage. Unwanted odours tend to cling more to synthetic fabrics too – I once spent 4 days repeatedly washing a dress that smelt of mothballs and TCP ointment. By the time the smell was gone I’d pretty much killed the structure of the fabric and the dress was 4 sizes smaller. Lesson learned.
Keep an eye out for kilo sales and events
Kilo sales take place all over the UK. We Are and Worth the Weight arrange great sales if you’re prepared for a rummage and are looking for lighter items such as tops, dresses, and skirts. Prices can vary, but you’ll be able to pick up a kilo of clothing for between £15 to £25 at most. Be aware that your finds will be weighed when you go up to pay, so if you want to stick to a budget you may need to put some items back if you’ve gone a bit wild.
Other events such as Beyond Retro’s Garage sale are great for snagging quality vintage items for £10 and under, and usually have a huge amount to choose from – with stock replenished throughout the day.
