The Swedish city, famed for world-class seafood and traditional architecture delivered far more than we expected on our whistle-stop tour.
As Sweden’s second city, Gothenburg is often overshadowed by big brother Stockholm. And yet, if it’s a thoroughly Swedish experience you’re after, Gothenburg’s leafy tram-lined streets and laid-back cafe culture is the perfect introduction to Scandinavian life.
We arrived at Gothenburg-Landvetter airport, which is roughly 15 miles outside the city centre. After jumping on a bus into the heart of the city (tickets for which can be purchased from the airport’s 7-eleven) we navigated our way to Slottsskogens Hostel in Linnéstaden. If you’re a frugal traveller like me, you’ll be pleased to learn Slottsskogen is one of the most affordable places to stay in Gothenburg, with a twin room costing around £140 for 3 nights. However, there was one slight drawback to this steal – our room had no windows and we were visiting slap bang in the middle of a swelteringly hot summer. While a fan was provided, there is only so much relief to be had from circulating the same warm air around the room all night. The moral of this story; never scrimp on fresh air or natural light. Aside from this, the hostel was clean, and friendly, with good amenities and a gen
erous breakfast spread of fruit, cereal, cheese, and meats.
If you’re an avid outdoor explorer, Gothenburg has a myriad of parks and gardens to get lost in. On our first full day, we took a short walk to Slottsskogen park, 137 hectares of lush gardens, green spaces, and natural woodland. There’s even a free zoo sitting at the centre of the park which is home to a host of nordic animals, including elk, deer, and seals. the animal enclosures are spread across some fairly rocky and wild terrain, so make sure you’ve got your sturdy shoes on!
Bordering the park is Göteborg Natural History Museum. As one of the oldest museums in Gothenburg this is most definitely a ‘proper’ museum; no interactive displays, just vintage cabinets from floor to ceiling, housing thousands of fossils, butterflies, insects, and bird and mammal specimens. There is also a thought-provoking exhibition on global environmental challenges and an award-winning collection of photography of the natural world.
Another idyllic spot is Gothenburg Botanical Garden which we stumbled on by chance as we wandered towards the city centre, and boy were we glad we did. As one of Europe’s largest and most bountiful botanical gardens, there are over 16,000 species of plants to discover throughout its rockeries, ornamental beds and greenhouses. There’s also plenty of lawn space to sit and soak up the sunshine.
If Gothenburg’s outside spaces aren’t quite wild enough for you then I recommend popping to the Universeum to spend a few hours in it’s literal ‘urban jungle’; an 18,000 cubic metre indoor rainforest. for SEK 275 (around £23) you’re free to roam a maze of walkways up in the treetops and meet an array of monkeys, reptiles, and exotic birds. However, we were led here by one thing, and one thing only – sloths. If you’re as much of a fan of these sleepy creatures as I am, the Universeum is a fantastic place to see them up close
After a busy day exploring, there is no better place to refuel than the Haga district. This charming 19th-century worker’s district is now lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants showcasing the best local fare. For a quick pick me up you can’t go wrong with a spot of ‘Fika’; which is a traditional Swedish coffee break, best enjoyed with cake. Picking a place for Fika in Haga isn’t hard, the smell of fresh coffee wafts down every street, whilst traditional pastries and cinnamon buns speckled with sugar are piled high in almost every cafe window. We popped into Cafe Husaren for our Fika, which is famed for its enormous cinnamon buns – and quite rightly so!
Finally, you can’t leave Gothenburg without sampling its seafood. Steeped in fishing history and still an active fishing port to this day, Gothenburg is the perfect place to enjoy a fantastic seasonal selection of fish and shellfish. We stayed in Haga for this, heading to the small neighbourhood restaurant Sjöbaren. Try and sit in the restaurant’s charming cobbled courtyard if you can, shaded by overhanging trees and decorated with coastal art it’s particularly lovely in the late afternoon. Prices are fairly reasonable for the quality and size of the dishes – trust me you won’t leave hungry! Most seafood mains range from 199 SEK to 230 SEK (£15 to £18). If you’re struggling to choose from their diverse menu you can’t go wrong with the Sjöbaren’s Fish Au Gratin; Cod Fish Filet, Shrimp, and mushrooms in a white wine sauce – delish!
